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To be honest, I still don't, as I attend college full time and work part time, so what little time extra I have I have devoted to my Jeep. I scanned Davey's Jeep's for a while and finally found a rolled 04' that was mechanically sound, and only had a little body damage, save for the hood, fenders, grill, and roll bar. I ended up selling my cherokee in a hurry and getting the wrangler for a little under 4k.
I wanted an LJ for the extra wheel base and space, and I think they look good. This is what I came up with.
I drove up from Tennessee to Ohio with my good friend and trailered it back down here, getting 12mpg up, and a solid 9mpg back down with his Powerstroke f, haha. These were the original plans for the build, and they have changed slightly since. This is just the basic setup.
I didn't really know what I was doing, so I just started taking things apart and putting them in bags. I completely removed the interior, save for the dash.
My cousin has a construction company in VA, and he had his crane down here in TN, helping remove some of the downed trees during the tornadoes here several years ago. I got lucky and was able to use it to remove the body. With the two separated, I was ready to begin some work. Also, the time of year affects the prices as well for some reason.
When I looked for them, none were in my price range. The other option is a step van, or "bread van". Most are in the configuration of a Chevy P30 chassis, as well as some Ford or Grumman. They either had a chevy drivetrain or Ford, with the Cummins engine. I waited and scanned all the local craigslists, but no breadvan was found. I heard of a website through 4btswaps. They have auctions of vehicles, equipment, etc, and I found several on there. The advertisement actually stated it was an ISB, which was nonsense, as the picture clearly showed a 4BT.
It also stated that it had not been started for several years and it needed to be towed. Well, I drove 3 hours with a buddy of mine and low and behold, it started on the first crank, and ran flawlessly. The shop mechanic has posted a misleading ad so that no one would buy it and he would have time to save up and get it himself. On the way back though, I blew a rear tire and the bolts were seized up and we had to drive 30 minutes to get a cheater bar at a hardware store.
We finally got it home though, and I began surgery to get out my prize, the 4bt Took out the engine and trans, which was an sm Then I cut up the entire body in strips, because it was aluminum, and its a pretty good scrap price.
I wend through probably 20 sawzall blades. This is the after I started tearing it down. It ran perfect when I drove it home, but since it is already out of the frame, I thought I would go ahead and do a master rebuild kit on it, which isn't too expensive for some peace of mind. The body had some surface rust underneath, and the frame had some pretty bad rust in certain places, as well as trapped inside the rails.
It amazes me how some people literally never wash their frame even once when they live up north and drive through salt constantly. I began by almost completely stripping the frame of all the brackets and etc, and grinded and sanded most of the rust off. I bought a couple quarts of chassis saver, which you can paint directly over rust.
These are some bad quality pictures but you get the idea. Here are the axles I picked up. I had originally planned on going with a Nv out of a truck, as it would mate to the adapter that was already on the back of the cummins. But later on, I decided to go with a Ford transmission and adapter instead.
I had to get a chevy dana 60, which is a passenger drop axle, because the chevy adapter plate on the engine, as well as the transmission, will only allow a chevy np, which is passenger side drop transfer case. It makes setting up steering and suspension a lot more difficult, but I have figured it out. I started work on the rear axle, getting it down to bare metal, and measuring, remeasuring, and finally welding the truss on.
It was included in the kit from Clayton. When I started the project I had absolutely no welding experience. I just went out and bought a decent welder and hoped for the best. It turned out okay though. The axles are also in pretty good shape. They have the Detroit gov lockers, and the 60 has Warn lockouts, so that was a nice upgrade. The steering kit That I was going to use for the 60 was from Ruffstuffspecialties. I also have their trackbar kit, as well as some high steer arms from Ballistic Fabrication.
After a lot of welding and measuring and difficulties, I came up with this. They were adjustable ones from Ballistic.
The concept is cool, but they are bulky and ugly as hell, and one day I will change them out. The wheels were from trail worthy fab. They do great work, but their shipping time was a little much.
Anyway, After some fine tuning I was able to set the body back on the tub. In hindsight, I should have cleaned it up really well and sprayed the underside with some coating, as well as the outside of the firewall, but live and learn. Oh yeah haha At first it sat really high, a lot higher than I wanted. It has since settled with the added weight. Last edited: Feb 23, I ordered and received the cage from Genright.
It was either that or a Poison Spyder cage, and I ended up going with the Genright because they had some pretty good testimonials.
After the Cage was welded up, I decided to work on the brakes some. I wanted to convert the rear to disc brakes. I also went with a conversion for the 60 as well to the same hardware. It needs less fluid to actuate the brakes, and they are a lot lighter as well.
I also got to take the cover off the rear. It was a little dirty and some surface rust, as when I haled the axles home they lost a lot of fluid through the vent.
Other than that, the gears and locker seemed to be okay. This was some of the gunk that was around the magnet And here is the front diff drained. It looks almost brand new. My friend's friend owns a machine shop, and I wanted to have the block worked on. I was going to have it remitted, but it turned out to be a bit more difficult. He specializes in racing engines, and so he was going to balance all the internals. After he honed the block, he found out that there was an imperfection at the edge of one of the cylinder walls.
When he removed about. So, we had to remove an addition. If it was anywhere else it wouldn't have mattered, but it was right were the head seals on the cylinders, and it could have caused a failure. So, in order to correct the loss of height, we had to get a thicker head gasket, as well as shave off a remaining. During all of that, I got the front end mostly straightened out as far as the grill and hood go. I also was able to get the tube fenders tack welded.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Cummins 4BT. Thread starter Jeep Start date Apr 23, Jeep New member.
Alright ladies and gentlemen, it's about that time. I'm getting a Cummins next month and going to start rebuilding it slowly but surely. This topic hopefully sheds some light on things I may have over looked. I'd like to hear concerns some of you may have with the swap. If you're curious about the "build sheet" of the engine I'll type it out. Certain things are still in the works about it. But let's hear all the concerns about it! I know I'm over looking something and want to be sure before I drop it.
Thank you in advance! Exodus 4x4 New member. I always thought these were cool until I actually went on a trail run with other jeeps and realized how awful it would be to have a diesel in the mix. The noise and fumes would piss me off. If you spent most of your time going up and down the highway it's probably a good choice though. OverlanderJK Resident Smartass. I would never want one in a jeep. In a small pickup, yes but a jeep, not a chance. It's a daily driver for me but at the same time I'll wheel it.
The guy I'm buying the engine from has one in a tj and it wasn't as bad as I thought but it is louder for sure. But I don't wheel as much as I'd like to just because the trails around me in Ohio is somewhat limited.
OverlanderJK said:. Click to expand ReBo New member. Just don't cheap out on good mounts. Cummins, the 4bt especially, are known for vibrating a lot. And you'll catch a lot of flak for it because the 4bt weighs like lbs and people don't understand why you'd want something so heavy.
I on the other hand have driven many Cummins powered vehicles and have a friend who swapped a 4bt into a gmc sprint with k5 suspension and axles. You'll see mpgs you never dreamt of! I'm here for updates. Ctimrun Member. I've got an FJ40 with a 4BT in it. It is a cool project vehicle and it gets a lot of attention so if that's what your after I would recommend it.
If your after a trail rig and daily driver like you mentioned I would recommend going another route, maybe doing a V8 swap like so many others have done to their JK's. Mine runs very well, and will only poor very light soot when under heavy load, but even though you may not be able to see the exhaust, you will most definitely smell and taste it. Your friends will not want to wheel with you and after the honeymoon wears off with your 4BT you probably won't want to yourself. Obviously decent speed and wind helps eliminate the exhaust issues for those around the vehicle, but not so good for a slow trail machine.
The vibrations are a lot for the FJ40 which has zero plastic interior parts. The only plastic interior parts it has are speakers, which by the way are a waste because you won't be able to hear them, and I have had to replace them a couple times because the vibrations make them fall apart. Unless you plan on removing all the cheap plastic interior from your Jeep the 4BT will do it for you. The vibrations are at a fairly fast frequency and can be numbing if you drive it for any extended periods.
You may be able to fab a special engine mount to prevent some vibes, but keep in mind these engines were put into very large trucks with large frames and bodies which absorb and dissipate a lot of the vibes from the engine.
Our little jeeps, and my little FJ not so much. For reference I have the mounts out of the truck it came in on the FJ. Another thing is this engine has a ton of instant torque. Prepare to break Jeep parts. If you don't have ton axles in the budget that's another thing you have to consider. Another consideration is you will not get great highway speeds with a 4BT.
Granted I could probably gear a little better for highway use, but you may want to drive your friends TJ on various roads and freeways to be sure you'll be happy with it.
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Aug 2, · Just signed for a new/reman Cummins 4bt at my place of business. Came with a spec tag, almost HP and almost FT/lbs of torque.:dance: If I didn't have so much . AdJeep Turbocharger parts are in-stock and available for all Jeep models. New & Rebuilt Replacement Factory Jeep Turbochargers. On Sale Now!Types: Turbochargers, Superchargers, Turbocharger Parts. Jeep Willys 4BT Cummins For Sale $70, This Willys has had major body reconfiguration to enlarge it. It’s been lengthened, widened and more depth was added to fit .